Monte Antelao

Antelao earns its title honestly: 3264 metres, the highest peak in Cadore and the second-highest in the Dolomites after the Marmolada. At that altitude the air still contains 20.9% oxygen — but every breath delivers only 67% of what you'd take in at sea level. It's not the Himalayas. Still, if you drove up from Venice this morning without stopping, you'll feel it.

The first ascent was in 1863, by Paul Grohmann and local hunter Matteo Ossi. That history's part of the mountain's character. What changed more recently is the route itself: in November 2014, a large rockfall destroyed the Bivacco Cosi at 3102 metres and reshaped the upper slabs entirely. The mountain's still there. The route isn't the same.

Technical Data

Route

The normal route starts from the Baita Sun Bar car park in San Vito di Cadore (1108 m), reached via the road to the ski lifts. From there, a dirt road leads to Rifugio Scotter (1570 m), then a CAI-marked trail climbs to Forcella Piccola (2120 m) and Rifugio Galassi (2018 m). This approach takes about 2h30 and gains roughly 900 metres. Not technical — just long.

The alpine section starts at Rifugio Galassi. You follow the scree gully towards the Bala, a white rock slab marked with a brass plaque, then take exposed ledges up the east face — narrow, airy, with Grade I moves. Above this you hit the lower Laste: inclined rock slabs at 30°, straightforward but with a big drop below them.

The crux is the upper Laste, which look nothing like pre-2014 photos. The Bivacco Cosi is gone. In its place: debris, 40-45° slopes, and loose rock that demands respect. The current line — marked with cairns and updated in recent years — involves two short II+ chimneys and an exposed Grade II+ ridge section before the false summit. The true summit is reached by descending a few metres on the north side and scrambling up the final rocks to the cross.

Heads up: the north-west aspect means snow or ice is possible even in July. Lightweight crampons and a 20-metre rope are worth carrying whatever the season. Fixed anchors (bolts and slings) are installed in the upper Laste for rappel descents if needed.

Oxygen and Acclimatisation

At 3264 metres, atmospheric pressure drops to roughly 680 hPa versus 1013 hPa at sea level. Same air composition, fewer molecules per breath: you're getting 67% of the oxygen you'd take in at lower altitude. Summit SpO₂ for a healthy, fit climber typically sits between 92 and 96% — sea-level baseline is 98-99%.

For most people this altitude doesn't demand formal acclimatisation. That said, anyone arriving from low altitude in a single day may notice a mild headache or unusual fatigue in the first hours. Resting heart rate can tick up 8-12 bpm in the first 12 hours. Normal. What isn't normal: confusion, loss of balance, or ataxia. Those mean descend now.

The night at Rifugio Galassi (2018 m) is primarily a logistics choice — you need to start the technical section at first light. But sleeping at 2018 m is also a gentle acclimatisation nudge that doesn't hurt. Drink at least 2.5 litres the day before summit day. Skip the wine at dinner.

Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) at 3264 m is uncommon but not impossible, especially if you've had symptoms above 2500 m before. Headache that doesn't improve with ibuprofen after an hour's rest is a signal. Don't wait to see how you feel tomorrow. Descend.

Preparation

Recommended gear:

• Lightweight crampons (useful even in summer on shaded north-west sections)
• A 20-metre rope and harness (for the fixed anchors in the upper Laste)
• Ice axe (optional in ideal summer conditions, recommended in September)
• Layered clothing — above 2500 m in the Dolomites, weather changes in 20 minutes
• Water: at least 2 litres; no reliable sources above Rifugio Galassi

Fitness requirement: this isn't a via ferrata. You need 2156 m of elevation gain, mixed terrain (trail, scree, scrambling, slabs), and the ability to navigate independently above Rifugio Galassi. Before attempting it, do at least two outings with 1200–1500 m of gain on similar terrain.

Best timing: July and August give the most stable conditions. September is quieter but shaded sections can be icy during daylight. August weekends: the San Vito car parks fill up and Rifugio Galassi books out weeks in advance.

Maps: Tabacco 1:25000, sheet 025 — Dolomiti di Zoldo, Cadorine e Agordine.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is Antelao suitable for beginners?

No. The normal route requires movement on exposed scrambling terrain (UIAA I-II+), the ability to navigate unstable ground changed by the 2014 rockfall, and route-finding skills above Rifugio Galassi. There are no fixed ropes — only anchor points for rappel descents. Anyone without alpine scrambling experience should climb with a certified IFMGA guide. Guide Alpine Cortina organise guided ascents throughout the summer season.

How much oxygen is there at Antelao's summit?

At 3264 m, available oxygen is 67% of sea-level, calculated using the ICAO Standard Atmosphere formula (Doc 7488/3). A healthy, fit climber's arterial oxygen saturation (SpO₂) typically measures 92–96% at the summit. Use the Oxymeter calculator for a personalised estimate based on your starting altitude and fitness profile.

Can you climb Antelao in a single day?

Technically yes: VieNormali.it logs the ascent at 6 hours from Baita Sun Bar. In practice, you'd need to leave around 3–4 a.m. to reach the summit before afternoon weather deteriorates and have enough light for the descent. Overnight at Rifugio Galassi remains the safer and more comfortable option for most climbers.

What changed after the 2014 rockfall?

The November 2014 collapse destroyed Bivacco Cosi (3102 m) and fundamentally altered the upper Laste. Since 2019 conditions have improved significantly — loose debris has settled and the new line is regularly used. The current route (revised 2022) is harder than the pre-2014 version but fully navigable. Conditions change seasonally: always check recent trip reports before heading up.

When does Rifugio Galassi open?

Rifugio Galassi (2018 m, Forcella Piccola) is open in summer only, roughly late June to late September. Outside the season the approach remains walkable but with no support at altitude. Always confirm current opening dates directly with the rifugio before planning your ascent.