Presolana

The Queen of the Orobie. An incredible limestone massif that resembles a Dolomite outpost transplanted into the Seriana Valley in Bergamo. Its verticalities offer a superb goal for hikers determined to test themselves against a severe high-mountain environment before truly aiming for the 3000-meter marks.

Quick Facts

Oxygenation and Acclimatization

Walking at 2521 meters means inhaling about 75% of the oxygen available at sea level. At this medium altitude, severe Altitude Sickness is almost non-existent, but I assure you the fatigue pulls no punches. On the final infamous scree slope before the ridges, your lungs will angrily search for oxygen and your heart rate will make an anomalous spike.

The strategy here is not to burn yourself out. Your pace must be calibrated right from the forest and matched with a rhythmic breathing pattern. Drink at every break without hesitation; the dry air of Presolana is deceiving. For many, this ascent is exactly the perfect oxygen test before tackling the long hikes above 3500 meters in the Rhaetian Alps.

The Ascent

The approach to the scree slope The start is conveniently located at Passo della Presolana (1297 m). You delve into the woods following the markers and, setting a good pace, in barely seventy-five minutes you crest towards Baita Cassinelli. The trail here levels out briefly, gifting false hopes before the leg-breaking section begins.

The kingdom of limestone Past the rolling section, you engage heavily on the steep slope for Cappella Savina and plunge brutally into the endless scree slope leading to the Grotta dei Pagani (~2240 m). Fifty minutes of literal ordeal where you often take one step forward and slide half a step back.

From the cave, the real fun begins towards the West Summit (2521 m). A series of sharp grade I and II limestone climbing passages takes over. It is exposed terrain that will make those who suffer from vertigo swallow hard. Having survived the small dihedral – which is providentially equipped with a chain to grab for the uncertain –, there remain fifteen final minutes of easy, sky-skimming ridge. For the summit, carefully gauge your nerve reserves for the descent.

Physical Preparation

The perfect candidate is a hiker with an elastic stride and a stomach accustomed to exposure. The rock must be considered not an obstacle, but an integral part of the path.

Physically, you need robust quadriceps. Spitting bullets over more than 1200 meters of pure elevation gain, almost all compacted into the muck of the summit scree, bakes your thighs if you aren't used to it. Besides your legs, you need arm pulling power and excellent abdominal proprioception: the passage on the chains requires leaning back for balance without hanging disproportionately.

Equipment

Dressing smart and having specific self-belay gear makes all the difference between an enjoyed adventure and an unnerving nightmare.

Essential:

• Certified helmet (an infinity of rocks fall from the roped party ahead in the final gully)
• Structured boots with rigid soles (Vibram or equivalent; worn limestone is slippery)

Recommended:

• Certified via ferrata lanyard (to self-belay on the chains in the most exposed spots if adrenaline spikes)
• Telescopic trekking poles (to save your menisci descending from the scree)
• Windbreaker and at least 1.5 Liters of fresh water on your back.

When to Go

July to September. No hesitation. When the limestone of Presolana is damp or – worse – slicked by September or autumn sleet, it turns into pure insurmountable crystal. A morning clear of storm clouds is mandatory.

Brief Historical Notes

The immaculate symbol of the Bergamo Alpine Club (CAI). It has been talked about since way back in 1870. Its enormous northern walls and the very ascent you have beneath your feet are historic forge-fires of severe Lombard alpinism. Even though reached thousands of times, the Queen demands the respect deserved by any Cathedral.